Illegal. Barbaric. Bloody.

Casual observers also consider cockfighting to be a contest of male virility.

I watched the two young men. They lovingly caressed the soft, shiny feathers of their prized roosters. Almost as amorously as they would caress the long, wavy tresses of their lovers.

These handsome men, dressed in traditional Balinese sarong, embroidered shirt and udeng (headgear) continued to stroke their roosters. Each measured movement calmed the spirited cockerels, awaiting the slash of death.

After a cleansing ritual to ward off evil spirits and welcome good tidings, the two roosters and their proud owners were ready to duel. Away from the dais, where a chanting Balinese priest sat surrounded by an array of canang sari offerings, a small group gathered by a clearing. The scent of incense filled the air while pretty women in colourful traditional costumes flitted through the grounds. In the meantime, money was exchanging hands.

Tajen, or cockfighting, is illegal in Indonesia and banned as a sport. However, this ancient Balinese tradition is practised at religious ceremonies, even though frowned upon by the powers-that-be. It is part of Balinese daily life, as the wicker baskets holding roosters throughout the island bear testimony.

The men and their roosters are ready. Holding their precious animals gently, both owners – serious now – walk towards each other. They hold their pets, bringing each bird close for the kiss of life.

The fight is over almost before it begins. In seconds, the birds flap around each other and attack, step back and attack again. That is when I noticed the blood spurting and spilling as the roosters moved in for the kill. That was when I also noticed the taji, the metal blades fastened to the cock’s legs, glinting in the harsh mid-morning sun.

In less than 10 seconds the fight ends. The white rooster emerges as the victor, while the beautiful black one lies on the ground, immobile. His owner rushes in, scoops the corpse up gently in his arms and takes it away, smoothing its ruffled feathers.

Religious texts indicate that the sacrificial tabuh rah (spilling of blood) has been performed for more than 1,000 years to appease evil spirits. The roosters raised as lovingly as a child still provide for their masters once they are dead. Nothing is wasted, as the carcass is cooked to feed its family.

As observers, who are we to judge whether cockfighting is pure entertainment, male posturing or a crude form of gambling?

Culture contends that this practice continues.